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Ate a rabbit liver yesterday, which felt sacred. There's no distance from death with organs thrown in a pan; bone and muscle and flesh can be old, but entrails don't last. Their unmistakable purpose is to sustain life. There's fat around the heart to keep it warm. It lets me understand, a little, the appeal of the ortolan. We have so little time here, and so much of what is beautiful is also cruel.

I ate the lungs as well, and only remembered afterward that they're illegal in the US. (Nope, no good reason.)

I bought a new toothbrush, and had to get a special orthodontic one that cost a euro extra, because all the other readily-available options were hard (or occasionally medium) bristled. Italians, how do you still have gum tissue?

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